Borobudur
Borobudur History
There is no written record of who built Borobudur or of its intended purpose. The construction time has been estimated by comparison between carved reliefs on the temple’s hidden foot and the inscriptions commonly used in royal charters during the eight and ninth centuries. Borobudur was likely founded around 800 AD. The construction has been estimated to have taken 75 years and been completed during the reign of Samaratungga in 825.
Borobudur lay hidden for centuries under layers of volcanic ash and jungle growth for centuries and its abandonment remains a mystery. The monument was not forgotten completely, though folk stories gradually shifted from its past glory into more superstitious beliefs associated with bad luck and misery. Two old Javanese chronicles from the eighteenth century mention cases of bad luck associated with the monument. Borobudur’s main stupa, which is empty and has created a mystery during the discovery period.
Hartmann, a Dutch administrator of the Kedu region, unearthed the whole complex in 1835. His interest in Borobudur was more personal than official. Hartmann did not write any reports of his activities; in particular, the alleged story that he discovered the large statue of Buddha in the main stupa. In 1842, Hartmann investigated the main dome although what he discovered remains unknown as the main stupa remains empty.
Borobudur consists of a single stupendously large structure, which can be divided into layers as follows:
* The platform at the base of the structure, which was clearly added on later and hides some reliefs, is of uncertain provenance and function. The main theories are that the platform was added to censor reliefs depicting earthly desires or — rather more likely — to buttress the subsiding structure and prevent it from collapsing. A section of the platform has been excavated at the southeast corner, showcasing some of the hidden reliefs underneath.
* The bulk of the structure consists of four square terraces connected by steep staircases. Each terrace has reliefs in two layers on both sides, recounting the story of the Buddha’s past lives and his enlightenment. The “correct” way to view the reliefs is to start from the east gate (the main entrance) and circulate clockwise.
* After the square terraces the structure suddenly opens up to reveal the final four circular terraces. Comparatively plain and unadorned, there are no more reliefs here, just several hundred domes housing half-hidden Buddha statues (many headless, some lost entirely).
* The peak of the structure is a central stupa. The two chambers inside the stupa are empty, and it is unclear whether they were empty from the beginning as a representation of nirvana, or whether they originally contained now lost statues.
* You can discover 6 different postures of buddha’s statue for bottom level to the top. They are “contact with earth”, “giving and helping”, “meditation”, “no fear”, “teach and learn”, “turn of wills”.
Borobudur Visitor Information
Entry into the Borobudur site costs US$11 – Rp93,000 (US$7 student, or Rp9,000 if you are Indonesian) and the site is open to the public from 6 AM to 5 PM. However, the Manohara Hotel (see Sleep) runs a daily Borobudur Sunrise Tour for an additional US$10 (115 000 IDR) per person, which gets you a flashlight and a lift up to the temple gate at 4:30 AM, in time to see the sunrise and explore for an hour and a half before the hordes arrive, and is well worth the money. Hiring a guide who can explain the reliefs well costs Rp 50,000. You should ask for a guide in the evening before going to tour in the morning.
Borobodur Conservation Efforts
In the mid 1970s Borobudur had greatly deteriorated due to the effects of weather and human intervention. Working through UNESCO, it took a monumental effort on the part of experts from around the world to restore the site. The conservation and preservation of Borobudur is a prime example of international cooperation. The Central Office Study and Conservation of Borobudur is monitoring the site on an ongoing basis.
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